Victorian style

Victorian architecture is one of the most recognisable elements of English culture. Since the 19 th century, it has become a staple of the UK cityscape. Over the years, many houses were designed with this style in mind, and many modern houses take inspiration from it. P & J Interiors can help you achieve that style in your own home with our amazing mouldings.

There are several architectural elements that all Victorian style houses have in common. When it was first introduced in the 1850s, the style revolutionised sanitation with toilet facilities and access to warm and cold water. This is also where lighting was introduced into the homes, which has allowed them to be modernised easily. Typically, Victorian houses contain basements for the storage of coal. Built from brick and stone, these houses were sturdy and usually constructed as detached houses, sometimes built on terraces. Sash windows are an essential part of the Victorian look, while roofs were finished with slate. No Victorian house could exist without a small garden. And of course, most importantly, cornices are used to not only cover any imperfections from the ceiling and wall, but also add more intricate ornamentation so characteristic of the style.

A beginner’s guide to fitting covings

Though we always advise that you go the professional route and have your mouldings installed by a craftsman, there are means of installing covings on on your own. Consider the following tips, and you’ll know what to do to perform the installation as professionally as possible.

The first step: assembling the tools

When dealing with covings, the basic too you will need is a saw. Choose a solid, stiff saw that feels comfortable and secure in your hand. You will also need a mitre box that is big enough to fit the coving that will be cut. When preparing to make the cut, make sure that you’re propping the cornice against the back plate of the box. You will also need an adhesive in order to properly implement the coving. It is recommended that you utilise specialised coving adhesive, which usually comes in 25kg bags. The same adhesive will be used to finish all the joins and corners as well. It is very important to check if your room temperature isn’t below 10 degrees – if it is, the adhesive will lose its properties and won’t bond the materials correctly. Other tools you’ll need include: a pencil, ruler, hammer, nails, sanding sponge, water, filling tool, as well as a paintbrush. Fantastic Section of Building / Fitting guides you’ll find here.

Step two: cutting

After gathering all the tools, it is time to cut the coving. Use firm strokes with your saw – don’t go too quickly or too forcefully, as you might damage the cornice or injure yourself. Grip the coving with your non-cutting hand to make sure it doesn’t slip or otherwise move in the mitre box. Do try to make sure that the coving is always level so you don’t make any sloping cuts.

Step three: fitting

Always start the fitting from the first corner you can see as you enter the room. If the walls in your room have any outward corners, such as a fireplace, you should start the fitting there instead. Make sure the area of the wall where the coving will be fixed is clean before you start the fitting process. Next, draw a line at the height you want the coving to be around the entire room. You might be tempted to measure it with reference to the ceiling, but the ceiling may not be level, so use a spirit level to make sure your line is parallel to the ground. Use pin nails around every 500 mm to create temporary supporting guides – any holes left behind will later be filled up with the adhesive. Make measurements along the wall and then transfer them to your coving, optionally marking the line in the direction you will be making the cut. Cut the coving and check if the two covings meet in a satisfying way – don’t worry about keeping a perfect 90 degree angle.

Apply the coving adhesive to the entire length of the back edges of the plaster in the areas where it will meet the wall and ceiling. Add more adhesive to areas where it will meet the other piece to ensure a strong adhesive effect and prevent cracks from appearing in the future. Make sure to clean up any excess adhesive – you can use it to fill the gaps between joins as well as between the coving and ceiling. Leave it to dry and later come back to remove the nails, filling up the holes with the rest of the adhesive.

The final step

After 24 hours have passed, you can proceed to paint your coving. Though there are many types of paint that will provide a satisfying effect, water-based emulsion is the most reliable way to paint on plaster mouldings and ceilings.

Explaining the difference between coving and cornice

Introducing a moulding into your home can provide you with countless benefits. You can greatly enhance the aesthetic quality of the room, as well as provide a number of practical advantages. Before deciding to implement one, however, there is a choice to be made: should you choose a coving, or a cornice? Keep reading to find out.

In simple terms, cornices are ornate, covings are simple. This works as a general rule of thumb, but it is important to note that this rule has its exceptions, so decorative cornices can still be relatively simple. It’s in the detail that the true distinction can be made.

Covings form a steady line along the ceiling with the profile being a very traditional quarter-circle (or “C” shape). Standard covings can come in various sizes, with the most common one being 127 mm (or 5 inches). However, this number does not refer to the height or projection of the coving. Instead, it denotes the imaginary diagonal line from the wall to the ceiling that will be filled by the coving. While covings are mostly simple in design, there are many stylistic options to choose from, so make sure you pick one that suits your needs the best.

Cornices, on the other hand, can be incredibly intricate and complex in many respects. From varying degrees of depth to intricately ornamental carvings, cornices require a lot more thought and effort to be crafted and implemented properly. However, if you manage to choose the ideal design for a specific type of interior, you can greatly enhance the look of your home, leaving a lasting impression on visitors.

So which should I choose?

While it all comes down to personal preference, the fact that cornices are more visually striking comes at the consequence of them being hard to implement. Only a master craftsman can truly ensure that your cornice won’t end up a disaster. Covings, on the other hand, are much simpler to implement, and therefore cheaper, which is why they were an incredibly popular choice in the post-world war period. In the end, it’s entirely up to you – whether you want to spend more on a more elaborate product or spend less on something more simple, there really is no wrong way of going about it.

A handy guide to cornices

When talking about architecture, especially that of the classical and neoclassical movement, cornices are a term that is often brought up. The word itself comes from the Italian term denoting a “ledge”. In English, the word has come to be used purely in the context of architecture, describing a horizontal moulding that can be found at the top of a building or piece of furniture.

How do internal and external cornices differ?

In the context of buildings, when we talk about cornices we mean either the ledge near the top of the building exterior that is usually decorative in some way, or the interior plaster mouldings decorating the walls just below the ceilings in many homes. While the external cornice can serve an important practical purpose as it protects the walls from excessive rain water, interior cornices have a purely aesthetic purpose.

A brief history of cornices

Cornices have been present in our interiors for centuries. They have been decorating walls and pillars ever since the Georgian period. While they started off as pretty simple, they later evolved into various directions. During the Regency period, cornices became more ornamented, while the Victoria period saw a return to older styles like Gothic and Neo-Baroque. The Edwardian period, on the other hand, came back to a more simple approach, utilising minimal ornamentation and clean lines.

Historically, external cornices served an incredibly important purpose by diverting rainwater from the walls. Nowadays, considering architects employ gutters and other, more effective means of doing that, such as eaves and gutters, their purpose is purely aesthetic, much like that of the interior cornice that comes in a myriad of shapes and styles.

Cornice styles through the ages

Throughout the years, the use of the interior cornice has changed in ways both subtle and profound. At the beginning, from as early as the Georgian period, any rooms in the building that had the purpose of receiving and entertaining guests had cornices that were much more decorative and robust, while those used in private chambers were more bare-bones. These designs were heavily inspired by the Classical period, as well as the English Baroque. The most popular design from that period was the egg and dart – a simple design that nonetheless adds an air of sophistication to any interior. The Georgian period also gave us simpler cornices with sheer horizontal lines – a pattern that is universal and ubiquitous, perfectly complimenting even contemporary homes. The Regency period introduced cornices with more intricate designs, such as leaf patterns, while the Victorian era added a whole plethora of diverse designs inspired by the Gothic and other periods that can still be used to great effect today.

Fibrous plaster and you – implementing cornices into your home in the most practical way

Many people still value the aesthetic qualities of cornices and want to have them implemented into their homes. This is, of course, a perfectly valid choice, and we now have the means of creating the most reliable cornices in history. With fibrous plaster, creating strong, eye-catching cornices is easier than ever. It is still only easy by architectural standards, meaning you’ll get your cornice done quickly and professionally – but only if you trust professionals to do it. Do not attempt to install a fibrous plaster cornice in your home by yourself, as it requires years of professional experience to be applied well.

Why plaster

A building material used in architecture for centuries, plaster remains a popular material for interiors to this day. It can serve both a protective and decorative purpose, most often used for mouldings nowadays. Manufactured from dry powder and water, then applied to the desired surface, plaster is easy to apply and mould into any shape you may desire.

The great advantage plaster has over many other decorative materials is the fact that it can be easily worked with any tool. Even sandpaper is enough to achieve the desired shape. At P & J Interiors, we use various metal tools to achieve the fine details that our mouldings are known for. It is also possible to create the decorations in advance and later attach them to the plaster with an adhesive. However, it is important to remember that while plaster is a versatile decorative material that can be moulded to fit any taste, it is not a strong material that can really only be reliably used fir finishing, rather than load bearing.